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Looking for a quick getaway from Vancouver or Seattle? Whidbey Island is the perfect weekend escape to disconnect and explore any time of the year. It’s one of my favourite places to go to break free from the big city.
Our Guide to Whidbey Island will help plan a wonderful visit to the area. Washington State has some of the most scenic drives in the U.S., and one of them winds its way through Whidbey Island, following Highway 20 and 525. This scenic byway is part of the Cascades Loop.
Traveling through the picturesque small towns of the Pacific Northwest on Whidbey Island provides plenty of opportunities to visit quaint shops, wineries, tasting rooms, distilleries, breweries, and eateries. There is an excellent variety of outdoor adventures to choose from, including trails through old-growth forests, endless shorelines for beachcombing, viewpoints from the bluffs, bird watching and spotting a whale or two.
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How to get to Whidbey Island
Seattle to Whidbey Island
Driving from the Seattle-Tacoma airport to Coupeville on Whidbey Island will take 2 hours and 10 minutes. Remember to factor in the additional ferry time from the Mukilteo terminal to Clinton on Whidbey Island. The ferry crossing is 20 minutes. Check for the latest Washington State Ferry times here.
The roundtrip through Deception Pass back to Seattle will not involve a ferry.
From Vancouver to Coupeville
To get to the heart of Whidbey Island, it will take approximately 2 hours and 40 minutes of driving, without stops.
Deception Pass Bridge and State Park
Cross over the Deception Pass Bridge onto Whidbey Island and enter a gateway to adventure and exploration. If you have time, stop at Rosario Beach near the bridge’s north end to marvel at the sea life in tidal pools. The Deception Pass Bridge and Canoe Bridge connect Whidbey Island and Fidalgo Island.
Are you afraid of heights? I am, but I always brave a journey over the Deception Pass Bridge. Suspended 180 feet above the water, the narrow walkway and roadway (28 feet wide) made me more than a little nervous, but the stunning views of the San Juan Islands, Strait of Juan de Fuca, and the snow-capped Olympic and Cascade Mountains are well worth it.
Deception Pass State Park boasts three freshwater lakes and several hiking trails (38 miles of trails) and has campsites. As the sun goes down, the sunsets can be magical. Consider taking a jet boat or a kayaking tour for views from the water. If you are a birdwatcher, 147 types of birds have been recorded at the park.
Informational map at the viewpoint at Deception Pass. Photo: Wendy Nordvik-Carr©
View of Deception Pass. Photo: Wendy Nordvik-Carr©
Views to the west from Deception Pass Bridge. Photo: Wendy Nordvik-Carr©
Views to the east from the Deception Pass Bridge. Photo: Wendy Nordvik-Carr©
Trail to the North Beach at Deception Pass State Park. Photo: Wendy Nordvik-Carr©
Ebey’s Landing National Historical Reserve
Established in 1978, Ebey’s Landing National Historical Reserve was the first national historical reserve in the United States. It offers an abundance of recreational activities. It has three state parks, Ebey’s Landing, Fort Casey and Fort Ebey for camping, and 30 miles of extensive trails are perfect for biking or hiking through forests, prairie lands, and along the coast.
There is something for everyone on the reserve, from birdwatching to kayaking to learning about the history of the lands from the Ice Age to modern times.
Quiet beach walks on Whidbey Island. Photo: Wendy Nordvik-Carr©
Best things to do in Coupeville
The quaint harborside village of Coupeville is a historic district within Ebey’s Landing National Historical Reserve. Founded in 1852 by Captain Thomas Coupe, it is the second oldest town in Washington. Coupeville’s well-preserved pioneer homes display historic architectures, including Colonial period Block Houses, Saltboxes, and Victorian Queen Anne homes. Captain Coupe’s original home, built in 1853, still stands today. It is one of the State’s oldest standing pioneer homes.
Practical Magic 2
If you are a fan of the 1998 movie Practical Magic, Coupeville was used as the film’s fictional Massachusetts town. Practical Magic 2 is brewing, and Nicole Kidman (Gillian) and Sandra Bullock (Sally) have confirmed their return as cursed witches attempting to break the spell they have been cursed with.
Beautiful historic home in Coupeville, Washington. Photo: Wendy Nordvik-Carr©
Coupeville Wharf
The views from the historic Coupeville wharf on Whidbey Island are outstanding. The beauty of the snowcapped Cascade Mountains is breathtaking. Look for informational signs on the wharf and wander through the Penn Cove interpretive marine exhibit. See the skeletal remains of a Gray whale, Dahl’s porpoise and a Steller sea lion.
Take a walking tour of historic Front Street to browse through shops, bakeries and cafes. From late April to mid-October, visit the Farmers Market on Saturdays.
Historic Coupeville Wharf. Photo: Wendy Nordvik-Carr©
The historic waterfront in Coupeville, Washington. Photo: Wendy Nordvik-Carr©
Views of the Cascade Mountains from the historic Coupeville waterfront. Photo: Wendy Nordvik-Carr©
Penn Cove Mussels
Did you know Coupeville is famous for growing and harvesting Penn Cove Mussels? Penn Cove is America’s oldest and largest mussel farm, known for its sustainable farming practices and the unique taste of its award-winning mussels, which are grown in the clean, nutrient-rich waters of the cove.
Peak season for these mussels is from the spring to the winter months. Penn Cove also sustainably farms Mediterranean Mussels, Manila Clams and Pacific Oysters.
Island County Historical Museum
The Island County Historical Museum is steeped in rich island history. Learn about the Indigenous people of the land and its early European settlers. Outside the museum is the Alexander Blockhouse, built during the 1850s.
The first car on the island is on display at the Island County Historical Museum in Coupeville. The vehicle with 48-inch, hard-rubber- treaded wheels resembled a carriage. The large wheels were necessary to negotiate muddy roads successfully. Photo: Wendy Nordvik-Carr©
(L) The Alexander Block House outside the Island County Historical Museum and a Victorian House. (R) A beautiful historic Victorian-style house. Photo: Wendy Nordvik-Carr©
Fort Casey State Park
Historic Fort Casey was once used as a military defence and training facility from 1899 until 1945. Tour the grounds to see how the location helped protect the coast and waterway. The interpretation centre is open seasonally.
Explore the Puget Sound shoreline while taking in the park’s impressive grounds, which offer views across to the Olympic Peninsula.
Admiralty Head Lighthouse
Admiralty Head Lighthouse stands overlooking the peaceful Admiralty Inlet at Fort Casey State Park. The lighthouse and lightkeeper’s residence were completed in 1903, replacing the older wooden structure from 1861. It is one of 16 lighthouses scattered along the coastline of Washington State.
The lighthouse has not been in service since 1922, but if you are interested in looking inside, check to make sure it is open or book a tour to learn what life was like for lighthouse keepers and how Fresnel lenses work.
Admiralty Head Lighthouse at Fort Casey State Park. Photo: Wendy Nordvik-Carr©
Stunning sunset as viewed near Fort Casey State Park. Photo: Wendy Nordvik-Carr©
Things to do in Langley, Washington
Known as the Village by the Sea, Langley is a short ferry ride from Mukilteo, 35 miles north of Seattle, or a 35-mile drive south of Coupeville. Enjoy striking views of the Saratoga Passage and the Cascade Mountains. Discover waterfront parks, beaches and forested hiking trails.
It’s the ideal place to see orca or gray whales in the water, eagles soaring by or on the treetops, and other wildlife like deer.
Langley is a certified Washington State Creative District. It is a great place to enjoy the spirit of the thriving arts, culture, and creative community. Pop into the many galleries, gift shops, wineries and boutiques.
Walking path along the Saratoga Passage in Langley. Photo: Wendy Nordvik-Carr©
There are lots of great little shops to browse through in Langley, Washington. Photo: Wendy Nordvik-Carr©
Langley Whale Center
The Langley Whale Center has been connecting people and Salish Sea whales in the Pacific Northwest for more than 20 years. Learn about whales and other marine life from the knowledgeable volunteers. In the interactive listening booth, hear the call of orcas and touch pelts of harbor seals and sea otters.
In the fall and winter months, scan the waters of Saratoga Passage and Possession Sound for the endangered Southern Resident orcas. From March through May, watch for the North Puget Sound Gray Whales. The North Puget Sound whales only number about 12 and are unique to these waters. Be sure to wander down the street to the beach, where there are Grey Whale feeding pits.
The Centre is open Thursday through Monday from 11 a.m. to 4 p.m. Be sure to check out this excellent resource, the Whale Trail Viewing Guide produced by TheWhaleTrail.org, on when, where, and how to spot a whale.
Langley Whale Center display. Photo: Wendy Nordvik-Carr©
Where to stay – Hotels on Whidbey Island
Various types of accommodation are available on the island, including cozy inns, hotels, Victorian homes, bed and breakfasts, and beach cottages.
Coupeville Inn
We stayed two nights at the reasonably priced, charming, comfortable Coupeville Inn. It is in the perfect location next to the Island Country Historical Museum, with easy access to the iconic Coupeville Wharf, shops, cafes, restaurants, and outdoor activities.
If you have a room looking east, you will enjoy a scenic view over Coupeville and the harbor and the morning sunrise as it comes up over Mt. Baker. Continental breakfast is available from 7 am to 9 am each morning. At the time of publication, the inn also offered guests a $5 relaxing yoga class.
A beautifully appointed room at the Coupeville Inn. Photo: Wendy Nordvik-Carr©
Charming French Mansard-style Coupeville Inn is within walking distance of area attractions. Photo: Wendy Nordvik-Carr©
Fort Casey Inn
The charming Fort Casey Inn, built in 1909, is the former non-commissioned officers’ quarters next to Fort Casey and the Admiralty Lighthouse. It is a great place to unplug.
Most buildings have picturesque porches and spacious two-bedroom units overlooking Crockett Lake or Admiralty Bay on the Puget Sound. Located 10 minutes from Coupeville, this historic Inn would be perfect for a family reunion as the property can comfortably accommodate up to 49 people.
Fort Casey Inn overlooks Crockett Lake. Photo: Wendy Nordvik-Carr©
Greenbank Farm
A 13-minute drive south of Fort Casey, Greenbank Farm was originally a dairy farm from the early 1900s until the 1980s, when the dairy industry declined. The farm is now a vibrant place where the community can gather, and various local businesses have opened in the same space. Today, you will find a bakery, cafe, art galleries, shops, a market and a place to sip wine. There are gardens and trails to explore, as well as birdwatching opportunities.
Where to eat on Whidbey Island
Whidbey Island has many great choices for food and drink, from casual to sophisticated. Here are some of the places we tried and can recommend.
Places to eat in Coupeville
Callen’s Restaurant
Callen’s, a favourite spot among locals, sits across the road from the Coupeville, Port Townsend ferry terminal near Fort Casey. We thought the food was so good we came back the next day for breakfast after checking out of the Fort Casey Inn.
The restaurant offers daily specials and a happy hour. Entertainment is available on some evenings.
Delicious meals served at Callen’s Restaurant across the street from the ferry terminal. Photo: Wendy Nordvik-Carr©
Toby’s Tavern and Restaurant
Toby’s Tavern provides a warm and welcoming old pub atmosphere. Its food and drinks are reasonably priced, and the establishment is filled with locals, always indicating good food being served. It sits on the historic waterfront of Penn Cove, next to the Coupeville pier, in a building dating back to around 1890.
Penn Cove mussels, fresh local seafood, burgers, prime rib, and more are served at Toby’s Tavern, along with its own microbrew.
Gordon’s Fusion Cuisine
Gordon’s is another local favorite. It is a short walk from the harbourfront and museum. The menu changes every four months. On Wednesday through Friday, with reservations for parties of six or more, the Chef offers a five-course meal, which includes a round of cocktails and a bottle of wine.
The freshest Penn Cove Mussels served at Gordon’s on the day we dined. Photo: Wendy Nordvik-Carr©
Vail Wine Shop and Tasting Room
Located on Front Street next to the Coupeville Wharf, Vail Wine Shop and Tasting Room offers daily tastings of the best selections of Washington State wines. Beer on tap, chowder, and snacks are also available.
Vail Wine Shop and Tasting Room in Coupeville on the historic waterfront. Photo: Wendy Nordvik-Carr©
Places to eat in Langley
Village Pizza is a popular casual eatery, and when we arrived, there was a big line. They serve family-style New York pizza, sandwiches, and Italian-based foods. The restaurant offers incredible waterfront views and seasonal outdoor patio dining.
Langley Kitchen serves a good selection of baked goods, sandwiches and entrees.
Prima Bistro serves a Northwest French-inspired menu with many gluten-free options. We tried the French onion soup, which was outstanding. When the weather is good, outdoor deck seating is available.
French Onion soup served at Prima Bistro in Langley Washington. Photo: Wendy Nordvik-Carr©
Greenbank Cidery and Tasting Room
Greenbank Cidery offers handcrafted cider developed by skilled makers using trusted family recipes. It is made from heirloom apples grown in their orchards and the finest locally sourced ingredients. The cidery is located in Freeland, near Langley.
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