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Here be dragons. With centuries of folklore about mythical, fire-breathing creatures, snow-capped mountains and more than 500 castles, it’s no wonder the landlocked European country of Slovenia is often described in fairy-tale terms.
Ljubljana Slovenia
You may not know much about Slovenia, the relatively newly independent nation which broke from the former Yugoslavia in 1991. About the size of New Jersey, Slovenia and photogenic capital Ljubljana (pronounced loo-blyah-nuh) are hidden gems for travellers looking for a central European escape without the tourist crowds of hotspots in places like Italy, Spain and Greece.
Bordered by Croatia, Austria, Italy and Hungary, there are impressive mountain ranges to the north, including the Julian Alps. To the south, where Slovenia hooks around Trieste, Italy, the country reaches the Adriatic coast.
I was inspired to visit after seeing Ljubljana Slovenia showcased as part of the American series The Amazing Race last November. Since I was planning to be in Vienna in April, I could follow in the tracks of the racers and take the six-hour train ride from Austria through picturesque Sloveniam to the city. It just looked too fascinating to miss out on.
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Triple Bridge boat on the river. Photo: Luka Esenko Tourism Ljubljana©
Expect to be surprised by Ljubljana. The popular local wine is orange — made from white grapes fermented with the skins left intact. And it’s not unusual to see a smiling man walking his ostrich-like pet rhea through the old town on Saturdays, feeding it fresh lettuce from market stalls or taking it along for his afternoon beer at a riverside cafe.
The town is built to human scale, with small squares, narrow cobblestone side streets and colourful Baroque and Art Nouveau-influenced architecture. Ljubljana’s visionary architect Jože Plečnik designed the modernized town centre in the early 20th century. His work includes the fantastic Triple Bridge, which has two pedestrian side bridges with stairs leading down to riverside terraces.
Town Square in Ljubljana. Photo: Andrej Tarfila Tourism Slovenia©
Ljubljana Dragons
The most famous (and photographed) residents are the quartet of fierce bronze dragons. They curl their scaly tails around the ends of the short span of Dragon Bridge over the Ljubljanica River. Dragons are on municipal manhole covers, the civic flag, beer bottles, street art, T-shirts and more. “It looks unreal,” was how one visitor described the town at the start of our two-hour walking tour of the historic heart of the old city, including 900-year-old Ljubljana Castle. If you’re feeling energetic, make the steep, 15-minute hike to the castle. Our tour included a short funicular ride to the castle gates for a walk along the ramparts. The castle chapel is dedicated to the famed dragon slayer, St. George.
Dragon Bridge in Lljubljani. Photo: Andrej Tarfila Tourism Slovenia©
Our guide told us one of Ljubljana’s ties to dragons comes from the legend of Jason and his Argonauts, said to have spent a winter in what became Ljubljana as they returned home with the Golden Fleece. They did the citizens a favour by killing a local dragon that was terrorizing the settlement. While dragons are no longer an annoyance, Ljubljana addresses modern travellers’ biggest bellyaches — traffic and tourist-weary locals. The car-free historic centre has a welcoming vibe that can charm even the biggest tourist cynic. In my four days there, I never came across a snarky waiter or an impatient retailer.
“We’re the only country with love in the middle,” said our guide. It’s not quiet all the time. It’s crowded during weekends when people from neighbouring countries keep sidewalk cafes, wine bars and restaurants busy.
Ljubljana has a young energy. With a population just shy of 300,000, including about 50,000 students, most people speak excellent English.
Ljubljana was named the European Commission’s Green Capital of Europe in 2016 and works to keep that status. There’s plenty of green space to enjoy and explore and access to a variety of outdoor activities. Rent a bike for one euro from the bicycle-sharing system. Stand-up paddleboard river tours include sightseeing from a different perspective or take a boat tour.
Every Friday, the central market square turns into a lively open-air food festival. Slovenian chefs prepare and serve international dishes from dozens of booths.
Lake Bled
Keep the fairy tale feels going less than an hour from Ljubljana at turquoise-coloured Lake Bled, where rowers steer flat-bottomed boats to take visitors to a small island to visit the 17th-century church. Grooms are challenged to carry their bride up the 99 steep stone steps on their wedding day.
Our day tour included medieval Bled Castle, on a lakeside clifftop opposite the church. Now a museum, it’s one of the oldest castles in Slovenia. With the Julian Alps in the background, it’s a picture-perfect spot. The 16th-century chapel lined with Baroque frescos is a highlight. Finish up in the lower courtyard coffeeshop with a square of Bled Cream Cake, invented in 1953 by the pastry chef at the Hotel Park in Bled.
Left – Bled Cream Cake at Bled Castle. Photo: Linda Barnard© Right – A closer look at the famous Dragon Bridge in Lljubljani.
Meet the baby dragons of Postojna Cave
Another worthy afternoon trip is Postojna Cave, about an hour’s drive from Ljubljana. It’s the home of the so-called baby dragons, or human fish. With their pearlescent, pale skin, they were thought to be the offspring of a dragon living beneath the earth.
They’re actually a sightless aquatic salamander called an olm or proteus. The endangered cave species can live to be 100 years old and can go 12 years without food. A clean environment is key to its survival.
Baby dragons from Postojna Cave in Slovenia can live up to 100 years. Photo Nik Jarh©
A train takes visitors underground for an hourlong guided walk through part of the 24-kilometre-long cave system. The network of narrow walkways and chambers, some as massive as ballrooms, are dramatically lit for tours, the better to appreciate the massive cave formations. At the end of the tour, see one of the baby dragons in a dark aquarium in a dim corner of the cave. Book day tours to Bled through visitljubljana.com.
The Cave Train driving through the Dance Hall in Postojna Cave, Slovenia. Photo Iztok Medja©
Imagine a medieval castle carved halfway up the face of a rocky cliff some 60 metres above a green valley floor.
is no dreamscape, although it does look like a fantasy you see it for the first time. The castle comes with its own romantic tale, the story of a renegade knight, Erazem of Predjama, known as the Slovenian Robin Hood. Self-guided tours go through the castle, from the dungeon to secret passages and bed chambers.
The drive to the castle is spectacular and follows a narrow, twisting road that passes along farmland and small villages as it climbs to the village and castle. Book day tours to Predjama Castle through visitljubljana.com.
Impressive Predjama Castle in Slovenia. Photo Linda Barnard©
Getting there
Ljubljana is halfway between Vienna and Venice and easy to get to by train. There’s a small airport where several international carriers land. Most Canadian flights connect through Zurich.
Plan your trip
There are a variety of places to stay, from hostels to boutique and chain hotels. We chose an online vacation rental to get a small apartment with laundry facilities. The Slovenia tourism website has good recommendations. The staff at the Ljubljana Tourism office in the old town was helpful and pleasant.
Linda Barnard was partially hosted by Slovenian Tourism, which did not preview this story.
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